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How to Fix a BATTERY CHARGER That WON’T CHARGE

How to Fix a BATTERY CHARGER That WON’T CHARGE

#Fix #BATTERY #CHARGER #WONT #CHARGE

“Duby4life”

We’re tearing into an older Schumacher Charger. AC current enters the charger, passes through the transformer, but doesn’t …

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31 Comments

  1. You have to hold the tip of the soldering iron on the two pieces to be soldered together letting those pieces melt the solder (flowing it). Never try to melt solder directly with iron and try to stick cold parts together. You can get away with it every once in a while but it’s gonna fail

  2. I bet I've had five battery chargers fail over the years. The only one I have that still works was a cheap one I bought at pep boys 20 years ago. I even left it out in the rain and it still works. The more I spend the less luck I have with them.

  3. You should look at a couple more videos of guys fixing old vintage chargers. They kind of rebuild them using the original transformer, but they explain the rectifier and diode pretty well.

  4. With ALL due respect, in keeping the alligator clips apart, it would be wise to clip them to a NON-Conductive place rather than the edge of the table which look like steel to me. If I'm wrong, then I apologize. Have a great day and stay safe!

  5. I wish i knew your friend im always stumped when it comes to electronics, the reason im watching this actually is because i bought a brand new in the box car charger for ten bucks from a clearance table and im sure it can be fixed, still working on it

  6. I got a bunch of those from the dump and free ones at rummage sales. Transformers are great for projects.Have only had one with a bad transformer. All the rest were bad SCR's or diodes.

  7. My charger nothing comes on and I didnt touch the ends together this happened after I stripped the wires back after no lights no nothing it's like it into sleep mode and won't wake up

  8. I'd guess that the primary (input) side of the transformer has perhaps 120 wraps around it. The secondary (output) side of the transformer ultimately has 14 wraps, say… but you indicated that it's center-tapped on that side so it's really 7 + 7. If you put an oscilloscope across the outermost connections on that side of the transformer and everything were powered on you should see a nice 20V sine wave peak-to-peak but we think of this as 14VAC RMS (root-mean square) as sort of the average power. The sine wave goes above and below the zero point. Next, run that through two diodes (back on that heat sink plate) and you have a half-wave rectifier. For that original sine wave, only the positive voltages pass through and the negative voltages are filtered out. This circuit just wastes half the current as heat but it's similar to what you'd find in most microwave ovens these days, for what it's worth. As a result of that wasted energy, it generates extra heat in the heat sink and apparently was sufficient to desolder one or both of those diodes. When the switch is in the 6V mode it uses the center-tap to only use half the output of the transformer (7VAC RMS) which translates as 7V pulsing DC through a half-wave rectifier.

  9. I've got this 1:40 amp 2 amp 200 starting amps. hasn't worked for a year and I remember an old friend of mine passed away once told me that battery charges have a fuse right here on the back left normally. So between tonight and tomorrow I'm going to find out. Of course I turn to YouTube to search and your explanation I like. check the cable clamps connection. Okay I was looking right past that. So I'll be checkin that first before I take it apart. Indicator lights they light up showing where I've got to sit too but the actual charge like never lights up. I used it one day turnaround to use it the next day and did not work

  10. Think of AC (or "alternating current") as like a sine wave. it alternates between a positive phase and a negative phase: 0V to +60V to 0V to minus 60V back to 0V kinda like this: _ — _ — _ — _ — _ or ~~~ The Diodes "flip" the negative phase of the cycle to a positive one so then the current only goes positive: 0 to +60 to 0 to +60 to 0; like: ——– or ^^^^^. (hard to draw with keyboard characters )

    "Direct Current" should go up to +60V and stay there, but when simply "flipping the negative AC phase to positive" you get bumps or "ripple" (which might look more like ^^^ on an oscilloscope) and usually a capacitor is used to smoothe that out which is what the "AC to 12V DC converter" that you'd use to test a CB or car stereo with has.

    Charging a car battery is not as sensitive to ripple as a stereo or a CB is and thats why the insides of car battery chargers are more simple than the insides of your 12V DC converter / power supply. The battery itself is like a giant filter capacitor, which is why you can test a car stereo or CB with a battery charger, so long as you have a battery between the charger and the device.

  11. My charger the fan keeps blowing, stuck on, last time I unplugged it waited a little bit and plugged it in again and the fan shut off , but it is doing it again, is it a easy fix or?

  12. 5:15 – if you had prepped the "old spot" surface, the soldering would have gone fine.

    Soldering 101:

    Clean surfaces

    Sufficient heat

    Good flux

    Proper solder for the job

    The solder follows the heat

    It is really that simple, dude.

    Iben doing this stuff since fourth grade.

    It ain't rocket science.

    I'm just sayin'…

  13. The Center Tap on a transformer is the return path for 12 volts A.C. If you were to disconnect 1 of the windings on the secondary you would get the 6 Volts A.C. needed. So the 2 wires now (you must not disconnect the center tap) would provide 1/2 of the voltage. After that the remaining voltage goes to the diode to be rectified to 6 volts D.C. Thats where the selector 6 or 12 volt switch does the job to remove one half of the windings on the secondary are disconnected. Hope this Helps. Good detective work on fixing the charger!

  14. This looks similar to the inside of my roll-around shop chargers. I was buying a new one very 2 years or so for my 12 bay shop. My friend replaced the old diodes with better diodes that had a stud. Just drill a small hole stick the stud through and put the nut on (no soldering) That was 8 years ago and my employees weren't able to kill it.

  15. Think of the transformer as pulsing power in and out which is “alternating current”
    The diodes in this setup only let the power go out which is “direct current”
    The cent tap of the transformer is the “common” which the out current comes back to after it goes through the battery..
    The trick to using a modern diode replacement is figuring which direction to place it in the circuit..

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