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You NEED This Fret Polishing Tool

You NEED This Fret Polishing Tool

#Fret #Polishing #Tool

“Crimson Custom Guitars”

At crimsonguitars.com we design and make heirloom grade luthiers tools, and sometimes we come up with better ways to do things…

This is one of those times. Sanding and polishing guitar frets by hand is one of those horrible jobs that takes too long and, to put it simply, often puts too much…

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40 Comments

  1. I like it. Will you be stocking both the tool and the carborundum powder grades? Also, I would be interested to know how much of a time saver it would be with stainless steel frets because that is what everyone seems to want from me these days. So if I could go straight from the diamond crowning file to your stop method, how effective would that be? Obviously stainless steel is as hard as Trump's teeth, so will always be harder work. Ive always liked your fret rubbers but only use them as part of the process at the moment. I always end up with high grades of wet and dry at the moment, finishing with autos.

  2. Nothing is revolutionary about this. Fret erasers work based on the same mechanics. You go through 4 different grits (2000 the last one), and then polishing compund with a piece of fine cotton cloth. I do it all the time. And I get a better end result, in around the same time. And of course you don't have to mess around with pieces of leather fixed to pieces of wood, mineral oils, sand, and so on – all this mess. My opinion is, seeing how a good set of fret erasers + polishing compound does the same job, I think this method does not make much sense.

  3. You should try a custom lap. Carve a groove to fit the fret shape you want, cover with aluminum foil tape and charge with a diamond compound by pressing the corresponding fret wire against the groove with compound. With how soft fret materials are each lap should last a decently long time. If you look up lapping for precision machining it is crazy how fast and how fine you can get without building heat. CBN also acts as a heat sink, if you want to use a dremel tool instead of hand lapping. Can use it for grinding hardened steel without blowing a heat treatment.

    Awesome stuff as always! Looking forward to seeing more of the handtool build!

  4. I thought barbers don't use a strop to sharpen anything. the strop is to keep the blade straight. the blade will bend and contour to the face because of how sharp and thin it is and the strop straightens it. maybe im wrong. thought i'd share

  5. I've smoothed and polished the frets on many of my and others' instruments, and I actually rather like that process.

    It can be so rewarding to see that deep shine and experience the smooth feel of a polished fret under a new string…

    And yes, it can become a bit tedious. But perhaps the main difference is:
    I'm not doing it as a job – I'm merely an amateur in this.
    But I do like to get it /right/ nevertheless.

  6. Used to use leather faced buff sticks with diamantine and then polish for polishing steel clock and watch pivots, this is a really good extension of this for frets – why have I not thought of it?

  7. Great idea! 🙌
    My new hobby is (after modding guitars and noodling) knife sharpening. It's addicting. I run out of dull knifes meanwhile… 😢
    So I made strops out of old too short leather belts (yeah, I was getting fat 😅). I also have a large variety of polishing blocks and paste with different grits. I will try your method on the frets.
    Here my idea:
    if the leather strips are cut first at 80 degrees angle, and half of the slant cut off perpendicullar, I imagine the groove matching the fret shape will form faster.
    Or 2.: strips cut at 80 degrees and glued very tight together so the thin edges of both strips slightly overlap. This way you don't have a empty gap in the middle. 😊
    Or 3.: thin leather undetneath the thick strips.
    Edit: Ha! I made the same mustache shape carving on my Ibanez fretboard end (infact two fretboards) wich I shallow scalloped last sunday. But the frets are already polished with a dremel. 🤷🏻

  8. Ingenious! I too hate machine polishing the frets and having a hand problem myself the sanding/polishing phase is quite painful for me after a while. Can't wait to try out the little stroppies!

  9. WHOA ! That's funny, I also abhor fret leveling/crowning/polishing. For the leveling I still use my trusty old 12" granite straight edge that I got from a metal workshop auction for cheap and which is just the perfect weight so that you only need to push it back and forth a couple of times with the tips of the fingers to get the job done, and for the polishing I use large and thick round bottle corks (for kitchen jars) that I cut straight in half and add a long straight notch in the length of the cut, then I start with fine steel-wool (which is pushed in the notch) and finish with polishing compound.
    But I got to try with leather 'cause the leather fiber is much much finer than the cork fiber.

    THANKS FOR THE TIP!

  10. I really like your idea. I would definitely buy one. I usually use 7,000-15,000 grit sandpaper, but im also not building guitars, or polishing after crowning. Im just polishing with string changes to keep my frets nice and smooth and shiny. it doesnt take me long and since they are my own instruments i dont have to worry about messing them up. I obviously dont want to mess up my instruments, but that pressure of everything being perfect for a customer i dont have to worry about.

  11. You said it polishes to 1000 s grit but you only use up to 400 grit, also the friction caused would surely produce heat which will have the same effect as the dremmel ?

  12. Alternate solution which addresses issues with full blown Dremels: mini dremel-like tools used by nail salons. Thinner, smaller, more precise, far easier to control, less RPMs but still more than enough for polishing frets beautifully. Most are battery powered so no cable to get in the way. And dirt cheap. Try one for yourself. All of the benefits of full blown Dremel tools for polishing frets but with almost none of the downsides. I have been using these mini dremels for years with superb results on my own axes. Then again, I am no luthier. 🙂

  13. Happy to see the hand-build back! The fretboard has come out gorgeous. By contrast, the bridge sticks out like a sore thumb now. I am curious to see how you'll finish it up –surely, you can't "burn it" now it's on?

  14. I understand your effort and approach, but wouldn't be better to have a proper and comfortable, well designed and cushioned, big handle to stop the finger cramps.

  15. 😮 Oohhh Shhinnyyy , I gotta say I’ve used a lot of different brands of metal polish…
    But I’ve been using Autosol for 36 years now and I’ve always found it to be the best polish for all types of metals and other shiny stuff as well, and it’s always the tube of paste I prefer, even to the Autosol Cream (that’s just me) especially when you can polish Aluminium to look better than chrome if you put the effort into it… Cool Ben , I hope Autosol will one day sponsor someone like Yourself or Me 🤔
    Come on Autosol jump on board for the ride Ben would appreciate that I’m sure…
    And I wouldn’t mind a tube or more 😂😅…
    Great idea with the new tool… seems pretty cool and very useful for a few jobs I’d say …
    RideOn …
    🇳🇿 ✌️😎👍🇳🇿

  16. Nice one Ben. For the last couple of years I've been using micromesh stuck onto a wooden handle with slots made with the correct profile (different for each fret size, made with the stock fretwire and micromesh). Very similar in effect and currently still "sharp" after about ten fret jobs. 1500, 3700 and 12000 grit. Some parallel thinking going on here I guess…

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