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EEVblog 1592 – Fluke 287 Multimeter Teardown
EEVblog 1592 – Fluke 287 Multimeter Teardown
#EEVblog #Fluke #Multimeter #Teardown
“EEVblog”
Fluke 287 Multmeter Teardown.
Testing video:
Forum:
00:00 – Fluke 287 289 Multimeter
02:20 – Battery/Supercap problem
02:40 – Why no live TrendPlot ?
03:40 – Teardown
07:37…
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I have had one for well over a decade. Best meter ive ever bought. I just use the magnetic hanger instead of kickstand.
Recently score 289 for 300$))
Disadvantages:
1) Big and havy.
2) Tilding bay.
3) Start up time is not bad but usually when you use multimeter preferred scheme switch and go in fluke 28x case is switch wait and go.
4) Strange software solution at resistance mode they dedicated F3 button to switch between continuity and resistance mode ok it need, but in capacity and diode you need messing with menu F3 button doesn't used.
5) Doesn't remember las used mode after switch rotation.
6) Expensive Ir cable I made myself for 5~10$.
7) other minor thing like price, battery consumption, leaking ionistor, not so crisp display.
Overall is good multimeter with lot of good features but are it the best is opened questions.
Loctite works as an insulator, not really optimal for the input jacks.
Did some work for the military and using loctite on the screws for the earth cable was a no go, never seen so much paperwork with instructions on how to mount a single screw.
My company had things in a kit with a Bluetooth module and you can set the real time graph up on your phone or computer
Is loctite a non-conductive risk?
Now if the 287 and 289 weren't so big and heavy, I might drag out mine more often.
I do like the capabilities it has and precision, but it is really annoying to use. I just don't like it.
First, the boot time is just too long, a multimeter needs to be instant on. It's one of the most important "features" of a multimeter and this one fails hard. I can feel my blood pressure increases every time I have to use it.
The display is also far from good, you are more or less forced to use backlight all the time to read it. It also eats batteries like crazy.
Most often I end up using the 179 instead (unless I need the extra precision). It is working as a multimeter should work and it doesn't drive me crazy.
Was a bit of a surprise to see an Intel module in there. I was aware that they made nand flash chips, I have an old sata ssd from them, but I figured that other manufacturers would have been preferred by Fluke.
Wow, is that an Intel flash chip? Haven't seen one of those in years!😂
Nice.
Dave is really good a circuit board analysis. the guy hasn't worked in commercial design is years, how does he keep up
I think I first heard about doing a quick counter-clockwise turn on the self tapping screws from Franlab. Definitely been making sure to do it since!
Cool a fluke teardown right on.
👍👍
Bob is your uncle 😅 I love this guy and his educational shows❤
"Worth every cent from a design and build quality POV", and yet you had to tech us how to screw self-tappers into plastic. I am surprised, they did not put self-tappers on terminals' posts.
Glad that getting that service manual by luck was helpful in one of your videos – BlackPhoenix from the EEVBlog Forum here.
4:02 Can I assume the plastic shielding is conductive to help block electromagnetic interference ?
You kept missing the LT2415-1 24bit ADC (to the left and just above the MSP430 in the schematic). Also, the voltage reference is not the LM4041 but U42, a 2.5V LTC6652 (last page of schematics).
At first sight the ADC reference inputs look to be wrong with Ref+ connected to AGND and Ref- to AVSS (cct gnd) – until you realise that AGND is actually driven to the 2.5V reference voltage relative to AVSS. Also confusing at first sight is that the LTC2415-1 +Vin is connected to reference +ve (AGND) and the input signal is fed into V-. However the ADC has a differential input so it's not a problem.
Awesome review!! Where can I get that schematic diagram?
I wonder if the reading at the beginning was from radio waves.
You seriously need a (better) monitor for your camera, you lost a lot of details of del PCB layout, anyways, It IS an awesome teardown, keep the good work! 🦾
I always advise on sheet metal or plastic thread screws to reverse it until it drops into the original thread also. No sense cutting new threads that will destroy the plastic over time.
The white range switch reminds me of a 45 to 33 rpm adapter. Dating myself!
What was the extra battery contact for? Is it for a rechargeable battery possibly
ENET1 and ENET2 have the correct pin counts for an RMII ethernet interface.
The 287 is indeed a very pretty meter, especially on the inside, but it ought to be for the retail price it has. You indeed get extra quality for the considerable extra money. I still have and use daily the Fluke 8060A which I bought back in 1983. It went back to Fluke in the late 1980s for an LCD board update and calibration. I just checked the calibration against my 6.5 digit Keysight bench meter and the Fluke is still spot on. I am not sure I would still trust the 41 year old plastic of the 8060A for high voltage withstand, but I rarely deal with any voltage greater than 240 volt mains.
My daily meter for the last 12 years is a 289. Good but…battery life is terrible. Boot up time is irritating. 87 is usually better.
But, i do like the Min Max avg all on the screen at the same time with the current value. Very useful. So, i keep using it.
C145 probably doesn't have a replacement. From the research i did on my Fluke 189 (on your forum), it's there just to store your memory when batter power isn't present. Many other 189 owners have, and suggest, removing the super cap entirely so it doesn't leak out and ruin the board. I've had mine removed for several months now and use my meter every day at work with no issues.
I'm convinced nobody makes a good multimeter kickstand. It's actually the only thing I don't like about my BM235 meter, too. The floppy kickstand attachment area drives me nuts.