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GE Gas Stove Top Burner Not Igniting

GE Gas Stove Top Burner Not Igniting

#Gas #Stove #Top #Burner #Igniting

“Master of None”

My GE Profile Gas Stove Top Model PGP976SET1SS
GE OEM Spark Electrode/Spark Igniter part # WB13K10014

#gasstoveigniter #gasrangeigniter #stovetopigniter

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12 Comments

  1. Hello, thank you for creating this video. I cleaned the stove top with easy off and it cleaned yrs off of the burners, but the burners would not ignite, after I had cleaned them. The problem is what you stated in your video. I would have never figured out why the burner would not turn on. I found the needle holes and used a needle and inserted into the pin hole and it worked!! Thanks a million !!!great video!!

  2. The igniters themselves are only ceramic tubes with an electrode that protrudes through the insulator on one end, and a socket on the other end to accept an electrical connector / wire that goes back to the igniter coil (spark coil). Depending on the replacement part that you buy, the wires may or may not be included with the new part, however unless physically damaged, the wires themselves rarely go bad. If the igniter is wet (e.g., from cleaning) or contaminated with food residue, it may not spark when activated, causing the burner to fail to light. As mentioned, cleaning the igniter electrode end and allowing it to dry will sometimes be all that is needed to restore operation.
    A problem that I saw on my GE range turned out to be the igniter coil itself – 4 of the 5 outputs from this coil produced a nice fat blue spark at the igniter tip. The fifth output was much thinner (weaker) and often failed to spark at all. Replacing the igniter coil was what was needed to fix the problem.
    Also, testing for the presence and/or quality of the spark should be done before disassembling the appliance, as the burner units provide a return path to ground that is close enough to the igniter tip for the spark to jump to.
    Once the appliance is disassembled, there may not be a good path for ground for the spark to follow, resulting in sparking between the igniter coil outputs or sparks jumping from the coil assembly to other locations — this is not something that you want to happen, as the sparks may create carbon tracks that result in lowering the insulation resistance of the coil pack insulators causing a short circuit path once everything is back together.
    When working in this area, keep in mind that the igniter coil produces a high voltage, similar to the spark coil(s) in a car. While probably not lethal, getting zapped by this voltage can produce a nasty "bite" and cause the you to recoil from the shock and possibly injure yourself further by coming into contact with sharp surfaces, etc.
    If you have any doubts about your ability to work on the problem yourself, please hire a professional.

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