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Hayes V-Series Ultra Smartmodem 9600 Repair – I need
Hayes V-Series Ultra Smartmodem 9600 Repair – I need your help!!
#Hayes #VSeries #Ultra #Smartmodem #Repair
“TheRetroRecall”
Remember dial up modems? Today we have a Hayes Ultra96 from 1987 on the bench that holds a Nostalgic place in my Retro …
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It seem the modem doesn't boot up, right? I would try to reseat that daughter board and that IC under it. The two socketed PLCC chips on the daughter card as well. Maybe that helps but I guess there's either some problem with ROM chip itself or it contents got corrupted somehow over the last 30 years (looks like its made in early 1993 according to the datecodes on chips and board) or there's still another fault in the power section. I would check that SMD cap between that Motorola chip UA78540 (still no clue what it does) and the new caps it might leaked as well. And there is an smaller SMD chip there on the edge not sure if you hit it with the vinegar maybe it got some corrosion on the legs.
Also, going by the date codes on the chips, it looks this modem was made in early 1993, not 1987.
If this is set up like USR modems were (which used some of the same chips), the board with the two TMS320 DSPs is the modem itself, and the main board has the serial interface, AT command processor, data access arrangement (the large transformer near the top) and the power supply. I'm not entirely sure why there are two DSPs instead of just one.
Maybe read the firmware, it might have faded
Check the voltage coming in from the power supply when it's powering the modem. It's most likely within spec but it's always a good idea to make sure. Also check the supply voltage at the ROM chip.
When you cut component legs put your thumb over legs so they don't fly to next town 🙂 Hope you get it fixed.
do you get your caps from an international supplier; in the UK finding good caps has been rather difficult for me, I have found places but its somewhat expensive just to get a few caps from them, due to the delivery charges these companies request
Amazon hasnt been of any use, when I searched the specific caps, near every result didnt even contain those caps [lookin for 6.3v caps for two P4 machines]
It's the "complained about your audio" guy here just to say your sound has been excellent since! 🙂
Also in your Dell XE video, I figure you already heard that weird USB port is usually for point of sale equipment.
i had 14.4 modem with 4 AA batteries
The stuck RD light will have been picking up noise from the switching power supply circuit which you have now cured with the caps. As others have said there may be error or diagnostic information sent over the serial at power up that you may see with hyperterminal in 98. For next hardware diagnostics the first thing to check is all the voltages, and for that you at least need datasheets for the chips to know what voltages they need, or a schematic that shows you what the voltages should be.
0:46 You may not believe it but many wiring closets for businesses still have those. They are plugged into Cisco switches so remote techs can dial in and work on the switch even if the internet is down.
5:47 If your parents had that modem back in the day, you were pretty lucky as they were expensive compared to the ones that were on a card that went into the PC. Hayes set the standard that every manufacture followed to make their modem compatible with the Hayes.
24:54 If you are using Shaw home phone over coax I think you are on a digital line not an analog line. I seem to remember there is a box you have to put between the digital Shaw box and an analog modem to sense the 50 volts DC of a phone line. One time I was doing work on a phone line in my house. I was putting in a wall jack or something I had the live phone cable in my mouth stripping the insulation from the copper with my teeth (I know stupid idea) the phone rang 50 volts DC straight into my mouth, I only did that once. If you have ever put your tongue on a 9 volt battery to test it? Ya, a phone line ringing is 50 times that took a week for taste to come back.
Awesome piece of history you rescued. I'm looking forward to seeing it working again. 😉
After watching your video, I feel much more confident to try soldering again. 🙂
could be bit rot in the rom try taking the rom chip out and reading it in a programmer and compare to a flash dump to see if its different
What an incredible looking modem, good luck with this project. You’ll get it figured out I have faith in you.
If those caps were getting warm as well as bulgy they were definitely going out of spec (high ESR). I hope the overall solution is a fixable / replaceable part!
when you removed the caps I see alot of corosion around the positive holes. looks like the 2 caps are conected in paralell. use multimeter to make sure both positives have continuity to make sure corosion did not cut that trace .
I had a USR HST 14400 and my friend had the Hayes 9600…. yeah, I remember.
I started around 1998 with a 14400 modem… 🙂 Good ole times.
I hope it's not EPROM bit rot. You can dump it's firmware but I don't think it's going to be obvious, like repeating pattern scattered in the file or missing letters in obvious strings, like AT messages or copyright. Try to disconnect the daughter board and see if anything changes. Pull the chips out of sockets and deoxit them…. Usually a modem is very unlikely to fail in any way.
There are "Prolific" branded Serial (RS232) to USB adapter cables, in case the PC has USB ports but no Serial port for the dial-up modem. There are also simple USB to RJ11 jack modems available. A U.S. Robotics 56K V.92 fax/data modem would likely be the best option, quality-wise & connection speed wise. USR sometimes made modem firmware updates available. There is PC software that can interface with POTS (plain old telephone service) that can pop-up caller I.D. on your computer screen, initiate a dial-up voice phone call connection from your computer screen, etc. However, wasting further effort on repair of your Hayes 9600 baud modem is probably not worth pursuing.
As suggested before, try using a terminal program and see if it shows any errors. Maybe try different speeds, in case the modem is in a fail-safe mode;
It could be the eeprom contents are hosed and the settings are in an undefined state, if you can 'talk' to the modem, these are some AT-commands that could reset the modem to factory defaults:
AT&F&C1&D2
and/or
AT&FE1Q0V1X4&C1&D2
Did you try sending commands to the modem from command line? Echo ath0 (zero) >>com1 it should click. Try it with ath1 as well. A term program would be better because the modem will issue responses. The Hayes command set has diagnostics built in.
PCB= "Printed circuit BOARD" it is a board, and your iron is set too low, you may have problem with cold solder joints down the line. check your voltage regulator, that SMD cap left of the 2 big ones and the two un the upper board, these have a habit of just crapping out and leaking ( just ask any 80's and 90's Apple machine owners) 80's and 90's caps were terrible from the start and after 40 years will be worse. , warm is fine , hot isn't also check for component shorts in the areas around the rs 45 phone line hookups, (IE: caps, SM poly caps. diodes, and transistors)
Those blue caps do look suspect. Or sus as the kids say. Anyway, I may have one of those modems in storage. At least, it looks the same. But as you noted, Hayes used the same case design for a series of different models. Worst case, happy to send it to you if wanted. Virtually certain I know exactly where it is in storage but let me check. I once ran a couple different BBS systems and ran through a slew of different modems, finally ending up with a USR Courier as everybody else did. Note for everyone, use caution with the modem power supplies. Many of them are AC output, not DC.
Printed circuit BOARD, so your use of "board" throughout the video was perfectly fine 😉
I didnt have this model of Hayes model but i had one very similar to log into Prodigy and my local BBS back in the day. 👍