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The Best Wire Repair Method… Or Is It!?

The Best Wire Repair Method… Or Is It!?

#Wire #Repair #Method..

“South Main Auto LLC”

Is it the best? I have no idea, but I do know it will make people click on it, watch it and then argue in the comments. At any rate in this video, I show you yet another method of wire repair that includes open barrel connectors and heat shrink. It is a pretty standard way of spicing or…

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41 Comments

  1. I'm pissed off…you're supposed to badly twist the wires together , then find some old used duct tape and wind it around the joint in a loose fashion and declare " Job's a good un ". Charge $150 . Then shout next sucker please………
    You could learn a lot from the idiot near me , wrong oil , loose lugnuts and how to break tire sensors when fitting tires……..

  2. My many years of field work (automotive, industrial electrical, machinery, computer controlled control and data systems) have left me of the opinion that uninsulated wire terminals and splices insulated with one or more shrink sleeves are best. They are the most foolproof, leaving no doubts as to conductor engagement or security. They are much smaller in diameter with less snag surfaces and hide better in a cable (with strategically chosen shrink sleeve color). At wire terminations, they look "factory" with the shrink sleeve neatly shrunk right to the terminal's ring or blade; plus, the sleeve can extend over and insulate an entire slide connection. They are not subject to compromised insulators (especially those of vinyl, nylon are better) that are so common in the work of electricians (about 80% of them) who insist on using the uninsulated bit of their crimpers on insulated terminals for "better connections." (As the troubleshooting engineer on a project gone wrong in Virginia many years ago, I could not disabuse the lead electrician from his unshakeable belief in using the wrong crimper bit–the whole system was wired his way.) To this day, I prefer my old, taped-up, long-handled Klein crimpers for perfect uninsulated crimps.

    As you know, a small heat gun is way faster and easier for shrinking sleeves. I get your joke though. I've watched amused as technicians used match after match in the attempt to make shrinking easier. In a pinch, far from the rest of my tools, I've been known to shrink the sleeve around a newly soldered repair with the cooler parts of my soldering iron. Oh, on shrink sleeve, that newfangled glue-impregnated sleeve is certainly a good development over what I'd used for years (although without any problems).

    On to wire stripping. Funny you should mention stripping with one's teeth; on my tween years' electrical projects, that was my method of choice; I still bear the chipped front teeth. Next came the trusty pen knife, wire cutters, and those little (Ideal, I think) one-size-fits-all strippers. I've stripped more wires of all gauges with those last than with any other kind. I wore the rubber right off my first pair doing industrial wiring and panel building. From the tiniest data wire to multi-conductor SJ cords, they all yielded to my finely developed "feel." But, oh, my aching thumb. I never much trusted strippers with multiple notches especially when going between solid and stranded conductors. I no longer wire professionally, but my arthritic fingers won't bear the pain of wire stripping manually, let alone feel for the perfect nick-less depth. I bought my first "automatic" stripper last year; it's a Klein Katapult (11063W), and it has been very good, stripping from 8 to 22AWG nick-lessly since it differentiates between solid and stranded conductors. Wires thinner than 22 AWG are still done manually.

  3. No Eric …To pi$$ off a customer. 1).You have to first not listen to them by allowing to park your truck where someone will steal both catalytic converters …. 2)have them replace an exhaust manifold only to hit the valve cover only to create a oil leak that wasn't there…….3)let them do a clutch job using the weight of the truck lowering from a lift to break both transmission mounts and tell them in came in that way…… I now secure it with a racheting tie down….sad sad sad………

  4. I couldn't see from watching the video if your collection of non-insulated butt connectors is the type that has a "split" lengthwise, kind of like a roll-pin. If so, I just wanted to mention (and apologies if you've covered this) that it's important to put the crimp tool's indenter thingy on the side opposite of the split.

  5. i own a rusty old e250 with 162k miles. My son installed ball joint but left the abs wire lose and rim cut it. Short of buying a new harness can i repair these wires till i can save the 200 dollars for the part or do suggest to save for the part?

  6. So, I’m confused! You used a barrel, crimped it and slid heat shrink on it? How dare you Mr. O! Well, you essentially made a shrinky dink butt connector right? EXCEPT, no pierced shrinky dink from crimping! Okay. Haha! My Geo Metro had a headlight dim on me, sure enough a junction with said barrels were corroded! Fixed it! Common problem. GM Thunder!!

  7. Powersports tech here up in Ontario, snowmobiles/atv/SxS – plenty of interesting DIY solutions on equipment, especially wiring in accessories or repairs. Classic e-tape and marrettes of course. Have definitely picked up on yours and others good habits over the years and nice to see my previous repairs coming through still in good shape. Appreciate the Amazon links to your stuff too, lets me go to our parts manager with some quality suggestions for shop supply restocks! Appreciate the effort to share your experience, always enjoy the insight, banter, and new ways to approach my own jobs.

  8. During my 35 years as an aerospace technician I've used several strippers. For years my favorite ones were the T-Strippers by Ideal but the powers that be decided that any mechanical stripper risked nicking the conductor and creating a potential failure point and so were banned in favor of thermal strippers. I believe the brand name is Hotweezers. they look like tweezers with notches in the jaws and a wire going to a power supply that heated the jaw and melted the insulation rather than cutting it. On a work bench they worked very well, if you can ignore the smell, but I would hate to try dragging them under my car. right now I still use my trusty T-strippers and I have another one very similar to your Knipex that are labeled PYT4 that seem to work well.

  9. Not sure if this is valid test. Modern engines can pull fuel if the exhaust is rich which in theory would save gas. Not saying this kinda thing will work but that carborated small engine isn't a good test.

  10. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You have some of the best troubleshooting videos by far. It just drives me crazy to watch someone heat shrink tubing with a lighter. For most who don’t do it on a regular basis a cheap heat gun with the circular attachment is the best. Both work but way less chance to overcook the tubing with a heat gun. Thanks for sharing all your great troubleshooting and videos. They are invaluable!

  11. Eric. Love the channel. I too have PSA. 4 years now. Also had the crusty finger nails. All 10 digits . Love how you deal with it. Too funny. I have been on Otezla and cleared them all up. Not sure your propensity for pharmaceuticals. And definitely not a sponsor. Not sure how you stay in the PRNY!😅😅

  12. Favorite strippers…. Klein Tools 11046.
    Favorite crimpers….. Carlyle snap on clones since I lost my OG Snappy's
    Favorite connectors…. heat shrink with glue.
    Ps. also have PsA so feel your pain there as well. Pun intended..

  13. I would say no, if there is any unseen damage, or a gap in your repair you will spend hours chasing electrical issues later, to save seconds now. Compared to just doing it the right way

  14. How do you like those snap on stripper/crimper? I've found on the smaller gauge, usually 18 gauge and under, the heat shrink butt connectors doing get a good crimp using those. It's like the insulated crimp part on the pliers is too big.

  15. I remember you doing a tool review for the Power Probe PPSK butane torch and I absolutely love that thing! Coupled with the Solder-Seal (solder and heatshrink) its an unbeatable combo for wire repair: no open flame and doesnt burn the shrink tube. I've had butt connectors fail before even while using the "correct" and various other methods of crimping. With the solder-seal, they have held true with no water intrusion on various different applications over many years of service (golf cart, truck, boat, atv ect.)

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