The original Macintosh hacked! Internal hard drive!

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The trouble with period correct mods is the availability of parts

Great video! Thank you for using period correct hardware. Tired of lazy modernization and SSD solutions.

I remember installing hyperdrives in 512k Macs back in the day.

RF shield from commands 64 i remember that LOL
oh by the way that transformer is causing hdd issues and that why you put shield there block transformer from sent wave into it

I miss boot sounds on pc like floppy and hearing the hdd work

You might want to use a metal plate with more screws for attaching the harddisk to the drive cage, so that it doesn't just hang there so wobbly on two screws.
Other than that, good job.

all this retro-movement is all about playing game….

512k Logic Board & Plus ROM = you can piggyback 512k more RAM chips on top of existing ones. And do add a quiet (noctua) fan – even at lowest speed it will be fine.

You could resolder the external port back on and still use it, with the internal floppy drive daisy chained off the HD20. The 512K and Plus ROMs are "HD20 aware." You can actually daisychain multiple HD20s and still connect a floppy drive, so long as the floppy drive is the last device in the chain. You'd need an external-to-internal Macintosh floppy cable adapter, but it would be possible.

Wonderful work!

The oversized screen geometry is triggering me however. These machines look better with the correct geometry (the floppy icon should measure 11mm x 11mm).

Hi , very imaginative and trying to preserve outside factory appearance

I wonder how long before a raspbery pi accessory is made to emulate the fdd signal to say IDE / SD card

As for the final shielding, curious if it is RF or magetic interference from the second psu that stops the hard drive from reading – does it stop the head from moving of the park position or does it affect the data stream being read and thus the cpu interprets the data file as garbage and unreadable

I have also seen expired credit cards used as a insulation barrier between cards, one technician that service our office used to gather all the used prepaid phone cards – they came in a thin plastic or a treated sort of wax paper style – he would line up the plastic cards and 'touch" them with a soldering iron, the adjoining seams would partially melt and join up. He had A3 and A4 sized sheets in his brief case and just 'snap them' to suit.

He came up with the idea when he was younger and working on terminals in the 80's that office people and medical staff would use the top of screens as "bacon and egg warmers" or place there coffee or soft drink on top of the screen.
He had custom wax paper internal hoods for the VT100 and VT52 terminals to serve as internal"umbrellas"

11:15 Camino '64, isn't it?

Amber LEDs weren't that bright in the 80s.

one thing i don't miss from the past: hard disk. congrats for the mod though.

Interesting to see RF shielding actually serve a real purpose. (Pre-reupload comment) – Thanks for using an actual hard drive & not just an SD card adapter like everyone else.

I'm not a Mac guy, but man, that's hell of a job to figure it out

"Hackintosh"

Love the channel. Smart trick with the glue on the connector pins

A day of Mac hacks? Adrian Black also released a video on hacking memory into a mac a few hours ago.

8:50 you can easily remove the metal pins out of BLS connector plastic shells, buy a proper BLD, and it obviously comes with shell and pins separate, and then just slide all the pins with wires attached inside the new shell. It would take just a few minutes to remove all the pins. But gluing them together works too. You need to have them really pressed against each other to make sure all of them are actually glued without a crevice – especially laterally

The trick to removing the pins is to push the wire forward instead of tugging on it, slide a needle to the side, then under the locking latch, raise the latch, and then pull the wire out. If you try to lift the latch while tugging on the wire it's much harder to do.

If you are ok with destroying the plastic shell (which you then replace anyway) you can carefully snip the latch with very small cutters, or hook and snap the latch with a hook needle – this speeds up the process to a second or two per pin

Although I personally would have tried to find a matching connector and soldered a normal ribbon cable to such a connector.

13:50 If you need just one or two extra millimeters of depth occupied by the rear end of a IDCC ribbon cable, remove the rear plastic bracket and unfold the cable that it held. That thing is for cable retention, the cable can operate normally without one if you don't pull on it with considerable force.The next bracket plastic bracket underneath is for holding the pins in – don't remove it.

20:10 In addition to properly securing the shield, use double-sided tape to stick any cardboard on top of conductive shield to make it unconductive. Be sure to properly ground it with a rivet first. You can run a thin multi-braid stripped wire through the hole before riveting it to connect the wire to the metal more or less reliably.

Similarly you can make a shield easily with cooking aluminum foil and cardboard. Glue to the surface that seems duller. Not all glues work well so try a few you have, but it usually glues without issue.

It also feels really weird that that piece of shielding helped. It either should not be enough or not be necessary. I think there may be more to it like installing also broken a short or something. Try running memory and floppy tests and carefully removing the shielding.

Ahhhhhhhhh~ Someone who takes RF shielding seriously.

It's so refreshing.