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The Top 5 Most OVERPRICED Mopar Parts You Find At A Swap

The Top 5 Most OVERPRICED Mopar Parts You Find At A Swap Meet!

#Top #OVERPRICED #Mopar #Parts #Find #Swap

“Rocket Restorations”

In this video we show you 5 of the most overpriced Mopar parts you will see at a swap meet. Swap meets are our happy place, …

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46 Comments

  1. I will agree with you, I have seen people who have paid thousands for them and I have also seen people who have jacked the car up wrong and either pop them loose or break them.

  2. Engine cores for rebuilding.

    It blows me away that people are paying $1200-1500 or more for low compression RV 440s that are usually missing parts.

    383s. Unless you are selling a factory 4bbl magnum/SuperCommando type 383, you don't have anything special. There is more power potential in a 400, so if you are rebuilding, I wouldn't bother with a 383.

    413 Industrial/RV/Truck motors. They have oddball heads/water pump configuration that are worthless and unusable in any other application. Low compression pistons with very few options for replacement and none that are cheap. You are basically selling a block, crank, rods, and whatever other doodads you can salvage like the oil pan and valve and timing chain covers. They aren't worth $800, Hoss.

    Rant over.

  3. (1) There's a SUCKER born every minute…
    (2) Most of these parts are "unicorns". This video was useless to the majority of Mopar enthusiasts.

  4. Face it just about anything from the mopar years back then is way over priced. But try to find something. Like my '60 Fury, fender emblems don't exist. My '79 Lil Red Express a used grill folks want like $1,000.00 for it. Ok you can get re-pops for the like 67-71 stuff. But the forward look era cars nothing. Heck LMC has realized dodge truck owners are out there and they got bumpers and the fuel tank sending unit, which no one made.

  5. Re old points distributors and vacuum advance, they aren't worth using with points because the point cam lobes wear down.
    This is why there's all these problems with them.

    You might think the wear can be adjusted out, which it can to a point. If the wear goes beyond a certain point however, as the vac cannister pulls the breaker plate during cruise what happens is the point gap goes very close to closing because the breaker plate rotates on an arc that is offset to the distributor shaft.

    When the lobes are in good condition, the slight closing of the points is irrelevant at light load cruise, but when worn the car can misfire and cut out and as soon as you floor it miraculously come back to life.

    This happened to me on a 383 point distributor, so I went looking through my parts, and eventually found a 440 distributor, swapped in the top part of the distributor shaft and it was almost the same.
    They're just not worth mucking around with.

    As you say the points just don't adjust within spec and the worn lobes are the primary reason for it.

  6. As a Chevy guy restoring his first Plymouth i can say everything Mopar is over priced and yes those 69 Barracuda plastic headlight bezels are 600.00 plus for NOS if you can find them or primo used. Plastic grills , tail light's, tail panels, dash panels. solid steel front fenders etc. has whip lashed my wallet and is still going strong to date.

  7. Anything and everything Australian Chrysler is going through a grossly overpriced phase. I'm thinking of getting rid of all mine, and getting an old Holden, which used to be the big dollar item.

  8. Great video Tom! Im 28 and I prefer carburetors over fuel injection and I’m happy with the factory mopar electronic ignition. It’s a lot simpler and easier to work on than all of this computerized modern stuff.

  9. I wonder why that is Tom.. you tend to demand premium prices for your parts. You are talking about what you will pay, not what you sell them for…

  10. You forgot to mention a833s especially the early 65 ones and the overdrive transmissions. Lately I see people asking $500-600 I’ve routinely bought OD trans for $150 ish

  11. As a lot of people have said, these parts and the cars that use them will drop. Just like Cords and other 30's cars dropped. 40 years ago they said a 50's Nomad would be 2 million dollars by the year 2000. That did not happen but Cudas hit 2 million.
    Almost every one driving a vintage muscle car is over 65 and some will pass away and others will go to senior housing where they have no room for most of their cars. Most people under 30 aren't interested in vintage cars and many aren't interested in cars at all.

  12. One thing about the long rams. There is not a single set of the exhaust manifolds for sale. The only way to buy one would be to buy a 80 thousand dollar letter series car.
    You need the exhaust manifolds to support the weight, or the intakes will crack in short order. I used to see guys put them in cars without the manifolds. They claimed there is no problem, but, when pressed, admitted that the car is just moved on a trailer, not actually driven. Smarter guys rig up some kind of angle iron to provide support, though, obviously that does not solve the warm up problem.
    Also, the manifolds hit the fenders of any car 1965 and newer.

  13. Personally, I think EVERYTHING is overpriced these days…. especially almost anything Mopar-related. It's even spilled over into the AMC world where Rebel Machines, AMX's and even the later-shape Javelins are topping 50-grand. Or when people (who have no idea what it takes to restore a car) offer up a vehicle that has absolutely ZERO aftermarket support, and they will try to sell it at restored-car prices all the time crowing about "how easy it would be to fix!". You just need a welder, several years of welding practise, a frame jig, a sheet metal brake, several english wheels, a computer -aided Plasma cutter, and a crew of at least 10 men of virtual true. SO EASY!

  14. Hemis didn't sell very well because they were different. Regular car buyers, even people who wanted big power wanted nothing to do with hemis because they did not understand them. They thought they would cost more over the long run to maintain and would be difficult to work on. The old reliable 440 was usually the choice.

  15. Points plugs i started on them back in the late 1970s you could set all the gaps with a paper match pack and use the striker portion to file the points. Never had an issue

  16. Story time & Unpopular opinion, last i was looking for a 361/383 cast iron intake manifold, casting #2806301.

    The guy assured it's a rare intake only on few select 383's.

    Knowing it was BS and the intake came on all 383's 1968/1969 even in non performance 4 barreled carbs.

    Anywho, the guy wanted $1200 for it, and the intake runner to head mounting face was pitted to hell.

    $1200 crazy for how beat up it was, now if it was the rare DP4B intake manifold, that's a different story.

    Now looking on Ebay, a different vendor sold me an intake #2806301 for $60, quite a stark difference in price!

    The vendor mistakenly sent an 440 intake instead of the one i needed.

    Shortly after the vendor sent me the correct manifold, and said i don't need the 440 manifold back due to the high return shipping costs.

    In the end, $60 for the manifold i needed and got a 440 manifold for free.

    After looking at the 440 manifold that was sent by mistake, it's a 440 intake manifold casting #3512501 1970 only intake, the best possible flowing factory intake for a 440.

    Bonus not too common 1970 440 intake and the 383 intake for $60, if these are not a score, i don't know what is.

  17. The problem with points from the parts stores today are most of the parts store sell the cheap ones which are junk there is a better brand I believe it's Blue streak but I'm not 100% sure we got an old Ford tractor what is 8N that uses points you put them cheap ones in there two or three weeks later

  18. I was told that the short rams are the hard ones to find I had to set of long Rams 30 years ago I think I sold them for 20 bucks but that's all I had was the manifolds I didn't have no hardware

  19. Hey Tom-Great video, thanks for sharing! I was actually surprised to hear the information on 71’ challengers…not so much about the rear panel displayed but information about the RT stuff that wasn’t available. I have a 71’ challenger (original 383/4barrel car) that was basically a “sleeper”-(rally gauges, slapstick, suregrip, RT-options but modest dressings-flat hood, no callout badging) I didn’t realize that none of the higher option stuff was available that year; kinda strange.
    Question…Is there any chance you have a rear glass for a 66’ Sport Fury? We had a tornado come through a month ago and it got both my windshield and rear glass. I know the windshields are available but I have not found any sources for the rear glass if it is being reproduced. I’m near Tulsa so I know it would be an expensive piece to ship but I also know you guys have love for C body’s and figured you would be a good place to ask. Thanks,
    Ryan

  20. I am not really a MoPar guy “by nature” but always wanted and finally (as in 35 years later) purchased a first generation Barracuda. I doubt I will own another; not because I don’t like others but with budget and storage space constraints, I have to “chose my battles” carefully! I would generally say that most parts common parts for it are reasonably priced (given the current economic conditions we live in), with the exceptions being things like plastic tail light and backup light lens and the chrome surrounds they reside in, and the as already mentioned headlight bezels. The one area that seems overpriced to me are the interior parts: $1000 for a full set of seat covers, another $800-1000 for door panels, armrest are not cheap, carpet sets are not cheap but probably not horrible given the acreage they have to cover. I understand some of it (supply and demand) but looking at the same parts prices for a ‘64-‘66 Mustang sure can make a guy’s heart sink! I do see quite a few parts I need that I don’t go after just because they are overpriced and the sellers are convinced they have something much rarer than they actually are! Yeah, sometimes I am willing to pay a few extra buck for something just out of convenience (I am standing in front of it, I need it, and don’t want to waste more time and gasoline just to save a few bucks). But some of the parts I need are just not high demand items. Example, I need the fold down back section of the rear seat and the “towel bar” seat release and I am just not willing to overpay for one when I know some patience will yield one at a price I can feel good about … and that I don’t have to pay to ship. 👍 on the “top ten” list videos for me! Being a noob and not really active within MoPar circles, it is good to know how the parts market is moving, what to expect to find, and what to expect to pay.

  21. Did you get to buy the small block six pack intake at the estate sale in Montana? Complete setups are sometimes way overpriced. Jamie was looking for one sometime back.

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