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TASCAM Teardown and USB Repair – LFC#389
TASCAM Teardown and USB Repair – LFC#389
#TASCAM #Teardown #USB #Repair #LFC389
“Adamant IT”
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6:26 I think that's just input coupling capacitors / resistors for the two inputs (2 per input each). There'll be a boost converter elsewhere, which are a very common thing nowadays as any USB audio interface needs one. And yes, it's 48 V at a fairly modest maximum of 10 mA, with most mics being well short of that (maybe 4 mA).
It doesn't seem like this bent t210 tip is the proper one for this work don't you think?
Damn never use metal tools when removing batteries
You didn't replace the micro USB with an USB-C, which would be better."
A satisfying repair to watch and enjoy. Thank you for sharing! Loved it.
Quality electronics are beautiful, and so much better than cheap consumer stuff.
"These things are meant to be serviceable". Then proceeds to spend 20 mins taking it apart. lol
I hate those kind of repairs. Seems like it will be a 5 minute easy job. Actually needs a degree in mechanical engineering and 3 weeks! lol
With only front anchor points, the usb port will rock and rip off the rear pins from the pads, seen it happen and it will happen. You always need rears as well or they just don't have enough support with just fronts and the pins.
The cap on the left top side above the usb port looked shot and with almost missing one side, I was almost sure you're gonna test it to see if it needs replacing
pre-tinning the 4 usb body points would have been a good idea. The user had broken the original with 5 anchor points – you are hoping 2 will work!
"if this thing could tell stories" – isnt that exacly what it does?! 😉
its weird when ppl have fuzz instead of hair.
Tuscan's are great devices, my DR05 still works great, even better with a Rode mic.
Nice work, well done.
Thats a very poor solder job there..
You know it, i know it.. and you can and have done better..
Also i only use C tips. they come in multiple sizes you dont need anything else only the correct sized one.
Those ports can be a pain. Next time hit it with 250-275 c low air speed while using your soldering iron. That extra heat will make the solder flow without an issue from your soldering iron without increasing your tip temp too high. You can always dab a hot glue stick around the port for support. It will really make huge difference supporting that port.
Good job and great video ! Thank you.
I would have soldered all 4 anchor points.
That was an awkward job
Did a similar repair myself recently. Managed to accidentally rip the USB port off of my soldering microscope, and had to replace it. I don't use USB data very much with my microscope (the picture is VERY laggy) but it is required to power it and to charge its built-in battery. Of course this presented a bit of a problem, how am I supposed to solder when my soldering microscope is unavailable? Somehow I was able to manage though. Not my best soldering, but it got the job done. You can buy really nice kits that have an assortment of different shapes/styles of USB ports, and they are pretty inexpensive. I was able to find an exact match for the port that I broke off my microscope.
Thanks! I have the DR-100MkII, which is a slightly later version with a removable SDCard for storage. Battery life driving the phantom power is not great so I normally use a power supply.
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That capacitor looks a little iffy between D16 and 5v USB pin.
I understand that you are used to that microscope, but, try a binocular / simul focal microscope, please! You will find another world!!!!
y no soldaste el pin en los 2 puntos de atras a la placa, no lo puedo creer, tampoco reparaste abajo del pin en el frente la plaqueta
I hope you found that little silver plastic piece that flew off when getting the back cover off 😁
comprate un cautin c210 amigo, y deja de sufrir
Huh. Looking at the case and not knowing anything about this kind of device I wouldn't have expected there to be that much circuitry inside.
Nice repair
Those SMD micro-USB ports were just a plague weren't they, wonder how much e-waste was created by them. Found in everything from the cheapest tat to the very high end…
Ich habe so ein Gerät noch nie gesehen
I would suggest the owner use a magnetic usb connector and cable. Once the magnetic plug is in device the user can just magnetically connect the usb to the computer or charger.
Make sure to get the magnetic connector/cable set that also does data as some only do power.
I have them on many of my devices and they work great.
Flux is your Friend
Graham could not also use that glue that goes hard under a lamp to make it more secure?
That is Usb shield. Mostly 0.1 uf to shield to gnd and signal gnd connects to usb shield on 2 points with 0 ohm jumper
Great to see your skills applied outside just PCs.
I bought one of these for my younger brother when he started doing filming jobs, easy backup audio feed if you ever lose your main mic signal.
Excellent.
I probably would have put a drop of glue on the back of the USB port, Just because I would want it to be a strong as possible.
Nice work on a battle scarred veteran! Looks as if this was one of the 2016 releases.
Should've called the video "how not to solder" 🤣 Just kidding
It's even more interesting when it has sentimental value. What about hot/UV glue to fix the port even better? Any downsides? Tricky but marvelous job there, thanks for sharing
I was nervous for some of the repair, but you did an amazing job!
that looks well used Graham
I am in awe. My Bluetooth headphones have died and I bought a replacement battery with leads attached. Rather than mess about with the board I cut the old one out and have tried soldering the leads together, my hand shakes live I've got bloody Parkinson's 😂
A very nice repair, but easy access? The last time i had a expensive thingy too repair i had too cut through layers off silicon crap.
It looks… solid…. but, will it play Doom?
What a cool recorder. Time flies while watching these videos, many thanks.
Brilliant, great repair
That thing literally can tell stories
i would have changed the thermal paste